2011년 7월 23일 토요일

Doenjang. [The Taste of Nature: Meju, Water, Onggi, Sea salt and Sunshine] #1.


The sight of one being surrounded by piles and rows of processed food is no longer something thought as awkward or unusual. The eye-blinding brightness that welcomes us to fascinating grocery warehouses is as familiar as the doormat lying on the front step of our homes. Before stepping into the large, transparent entrance door we each grab a cart in a matter of fact kind of way as if to prove that this was how mankind reaped the source of energy all along. No need to dirty one’s hands or feet. All one needs is a wallet full of bills, or even better, credit cards.

Sometimes, however, one might ask all of a sudden, where does everything come from? What in the world are we stuffing ourselves with? What does this box with whole-grain, nutritious, organic printed on top really contain? What ingredients were used to make that jar of sauce? How about the piece of meat over there? Was it actually once alive before coming here all ready to be cooked under those layers of plastic wrap?          
Soybeans, known for its richness in protein, are the central ingredient of Doenjang. “Jang” here basically means paste cured with fermented malt and salt, used as both seasoning and a side dish, rather than simply soybean sauce as it is easily interpreted nowadays. The variety of Jang and the history it withholds goes back to the ancient times of the three countries, Korea, China and Japan. However, due to the difference in the natural climate and environment of each country, the development of Jang too has proceeded to head out in separate ways.


       Having the perfect condition to grow soybeans of high quality, the dietary axis of sauce in Korea was formed based on this food that is known to be ‘nutritionally complete’. The nickname ‘meat from the fields’ plainly shows the level of protein that soybeans carry (more than 40% whereas meat or eggs carry a lower 26%). What really makes soybeans the top-notch though, is the fact that besides protein it is also full of all the essential amino acids our bodies need and plenty of essential fatty acids, vitamins, minerals, and cellulose as well. Understanding their wonderful value, ancient Koreans made sure to take in what soybeans had to offer, particularly in a way that was both similar to the two neighboring countries but at the same time with a definite twist. And out came the indivisible couple; Doenjang and Ganjang.


     At the beginning of their making, Doenjang and Ganjang did not yet stand independently. It was made as a watery paste from soybeans and brine. It was during the Three Kingdom Period when people started to separate the two Jangs from one, Doenjang being named after the thick paste and Ganjang after the saltiness of the liquid sauce. Once comfortably settling down on its natural character, Doenjang and Ganjang grew along with the Korean history, not only as a sauce but the main source of nutrition. Both Jangs were either eaten raw or used as basic ingredients in cooking dishes, operating away the unique saltiness into Korean cuisine. Nevertheless a clear difference existed between the two Jangs despite the fact that they were both born from the same foundation, therefore rarely being used together and developing respective worlds of cookery.          

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